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Building a Racecar Driver - Chapter 2

Building a Racecar Driver - Chapter 2

Let’s get back to DE for a moment, he really didn’t have much race track experience, especially in a full-fledged race-car. He has ridden motorcycles quite a bit on the track but not automobiles, which I feel can give a driver somewhat a Superman like syndrome.  Once you get in a car, you’re all wrapped up in a cocoon of steel or Aluminum in the case of the modern Porsche, which can give you a false sense of security, maybe allowing you to push yourself farther than you actually should, who knows. DE had attended a couple of Callas Rennsport track days and even spent a full week at the Porsche advanced level driving school at the Barber Motorsports Park. So, needless to say, we had our work cut-out for us.  DE is a fearless street racer who likes to let it all hang out, but on the racetrack the loosie-goosey hang-it-all-out way is not the fastest and for sure not the safest way around a street course, not to mention it’s not so good on those big black ... read more

Building a Racecar Driver - Chapter 1

A number a years ago, Callas Rennsport gained a new client named Daniel Espinosa. He’s in his mid-50’s and absolutely loves everything mechanical, especially mechanical things that run on petrol. He had such a huge desire to go racing, and wanted to accomplish too much too quickly. I had to hold him back. It’s tough when a new blossoming driver can afford a much faster and higher horsepower car, which would impress everyone including themselves, but that isn’t the best thing to learn in. I tell every new driver, get yourself the slowest car your ego can handle. Knowing our substantial racing history, Daniel bothered me for a number of years to go racing. I told him that I had retired from racing and campaigning racecars, and that we were not in a position to support a full-fledged racing program. Racing is a sport that requires severe commitment and funding. While most people are not equipped, either due to health, family commitments or financial constraints ... read more

Which Porsche?

Which Porsche              A question we are often asked both by first time buyers or already seasoned owners, “which Porsche is the best to purchase”. Throughout their history, Porsche has made outstanding vehicles. Excellence in engineering, styling, materials, workmanship and performance have been their core values from the very beginning. Their continual reengineering, technical and racing development has allowed Porsche to maintain a reputation as one of the top automotive manufactures in the world with some models that could be taken from the showroom directly to the race track. Which one is the best? The simple answer is Porsche’s latest offerings, the technology and performance are spectacular. However, that is usually not the answer being sought, the question really being asked is “which used Porsche is best for me.” That can be a very complicated answer on multipl ... read more

911 Quick Reference Guide

911 Quick Reference Guide

911 Street Model Variants The wide world of 911 models can get confusing. Tony Callas as put together a quick-reference guide of 911 Models for easy reference of street 911 models. 1964-1968 Short wheel base (Long Hood) -Oil and filter change – FILL QUANTITY 8.50 - 9.00 Quarts -All engines 2.0 Liter -All engine cases aluminum -1967 first year of the 911S -1967 911S introduction of Fuchs wheels – 2 versions – 4.5 in for the 911S – 7.0 in for the 911R -1967 was the first year for factory-supplied Weber carburetors with the 911S getting 40IDS carbs – 1st 20 cars got 40 IDA special w/ no high speed circuit - but stamped S on the end. -1968 first and only year of 911L -1968 911 engine case now magnesium (mid-year changeover) -1968 911S only in Europe (Heavy emissions year) -1968 US cars had smog pumps and emissions equipment -Bendix style fuel pumps located in engine compartment 1969 First year of Long wheel base (Long Hood ... read more

Long-Term Storage

Long-Term Storage

If you’re going to store your special automobile for any lengthy period of time, here are my thoughts: Change the engine oil and filter and flush the brake fluid before putting the car into storage. The main thing is to not start the engine unless you are going to be able to drive the car for at least 30 minutes, this will burn all the moisture out of the oil. IF it’s a street car oil, you are good to go for length of time. Race oil is good for one year. Never start your engine unless you’ll be able to drive your car, an idling engine, especially from cold start, is very harmful to the engine intervals. Disconnecting is okay, but better yet removing the battery from the car is the best idea. Pump the tires up to 50-60lbs, do not jack the car up, this will expose the shock shafts. Fill the fuel tank and put a bottle of Driven fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank.  This is good for one year, if you must go for a longer period of time, drain the fuel system complet ... read more